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C-STN17 - MINI SPARES STAGE ONE KIT (998cc only)

Beware: Instructions must be read carefully.

Although the 998/1300 stage one kits are bolt on parts easily fitted by any person with mechanical knowledge, the following must be understood.

Both Keith Calver and Keith Dodd have fitted the Mini Spares kit to their 1000cc cars. Keith Calver was involved in getting the ignitions and needle settings correct at Peter Baldwin’s (Marshalls) rolling road in Cambridge.

Many people already have some of the parts on their car without know how close they are to extra power. The parts required are the original Competition Silencers exhaust RC40, Mini Spares special inlet manifold, Maniflow freeflow exhaust manifold...

SUSPENSION - Terminology

Glossary of terms used in the suspension on the mini. The Mini has consistently more than proven its capability in competition with very limited and cost-effective modifications based on the standard equipment fitted. Having first ensured the bodyshell (in reality little more than a complex bracket to hold suspension and driver securely in place) is well sorted out by removing all cruddy or rotten metalwork and into something like straight, square and strong we, maximising suspension stability and geometry pays dividends in the enjoyment that is driving a Mini. Understanding what the individual ingredients are helps in pursuing what you want from the experience. Smooth Mover Good, reliable, and consistent handling is dependent on a number of factors. At this stage, we’re concerned with clapped out or badly adjusted suspension components. Stiff, seized, partially seized or slack, sloppy, worn out suspension components will cause inconsistent, wayward, confusing and – more important

Rocker gear - General compendium

Whether you’re building a solid road performer or fire-breathing monster, the main goal is to improve air/fuel flow into the engine. The more you can get in, the more power you can get out. Cheapest chunk of power improvement comes from sorting the asthmatic manifolding and exhaust by applying a stage one kit. Then what? Considering the ‘get more in to get more out’ theme, the main restriction - all else being equal - is the valves and their behavior. How big they are, how efficient they are and how long they’re open for determines how much gets in with each gulp each bore/piston makes. Modified cylinder heads are popularly next, although it has to be said that although a well modified cylinder head will improve performance, the gain against cost is nowhere near that given by the ‘stage one’ kit application. A good stage one kit’s improvement verses cost is around £12.50 per 1 hp, a decent modified head typically £30 per 1hp - dependent on application. Hmm.

Engine - 1098, Initial Tuning

The 1098 (1100) engine has had a lot of bad press over the years - largely because of early experiences when trying to tune the motor brought about problems with the then standard components available - they simply were not up to taking any real punishment as experienced in racing.

See bottom for useful part numbers.

This fallacy was handed down generation to generation like some scary bedtime story. Those that have used the unit in more recent years, employing more capable componentry know what a demon motor this can be. Following is an initial look at what it will do with a little modification - the results compared directly with it's smaller brother the 998 for illustration of the potential.

Abridged History
When the Mini was first conceived it ustilised a de-stroked version of the then quite remarkable 948cc A-series engine.

Engine - 998 Tuning, Bolt-ons

The 998cc engine is a very robust and tunable unit. It is also the most common engine found in standard Minis. See bottom for useful part numbers Terminology: MSC/MM - Mini Spares Centre/Mini Mania ID - Inside Diameter OD - Outside Diameter BBU - Big Bore Unit (refers to all 1275cc-based units) SBU - Small Bore Unit (refers to all sub-1275cc units, here the 998) BHP - Brake Horse Power LCB - Long Centre Branch Despite the lure of the much-advertised 1380cc alternatives, many simply want to get a little more from what they have at reasonable outlay. The single biggest restriction on any standard Mini is the 'breathing apparatus' - anything that is connected to the induction and exhaust systems. The standard exhaust being the biggest culprit - it is desperately restrictive in the name of noise suppression and cheapness of manufacture. Oddly enough it also increases fuel consumption when tested over a better designed, fre

The red lights went out after a short wait and the 2005 season was underway. I held position and went early on the attack,

It seems remarkable, but a winter break of over six months is never enough time to prepare a racing car! The truth is, at long last I've completely refurbished the hall, stairs and landing at home. That concludes a 7 and a half year ...

Air filtration - K&N Air cleaner test.

In the forefront of Mini tuning, improving the over-all breathing capability of the very asthmatic A-series the air filter set-up is one that sees priority attention. All the widely available (and widely varying) stage one tuning kits include at the very least a replacement - and hopefully - high-flow air filter element to fit into the standard plastic case,

In the past few years (well, must be nearly 6 years by now!) since I got involved with writing for the specialist Mini Magazines I have been continually fighting with the problem of limited space. This has limited what I have been able to cover, both in subjects and in details. Up until recently (say the past year or so) I have been covering fairly broad topics in a fairly broad terms and detail. Basically trying to cover perhaps the most popular areas dabbled in by the Mini owning masses.

A+ head castings - despite having the same 12G940 casting number - are considerably different in appearance, loosing the flat area behind the thermostat housing and around the rest of the rocker/head stud areas to a sculptured look - where these areas are replaced by a 'sunken' cast finish. The A+ castings were introduced with the appearance of the Metro in 1980, although some late 1275GTs (1979-on) had them fitted. Generally they are easily recognised by their colour - a putrid yellow on the small-bore castings and bright red on the large-bore ones, a paint finish that is VERY difficult to remove, even in a chemical tank. The MG

See bottom for useful part numbers.

Cylinder head - Suitability basics

Whatever else owners do to their Minis by way of interior/exterior modifications or none at all, a very large proportion desire and search for an increase in engine performance.

See bottom for useful part numbers.

Now this may not be super-sonic speed-inducing power, it could just as well be for maximum economy. In either case, it's the engines volumetric efficiency (VE) under scrutiny - it's ability to breath in as much correctly proportioned air/fuel mix as possible in any given situation. Although the induction/exhaust system plays an important part, there are effectively two major factors that dictate performance increases - the camshaft and cylinder head. The induction and exhaust elements (stage one kits, exhaust systems, etc.) and camshafts are covered in various other articles in my 'Corner'. So here we'll have a look at cylinder heads and dispel some of the myths and legends surrounding them.

The 998cc engine is a very robust and tunable unit. It is also the most common engine found in standard Minis. Despite the lure of the much-advertised 1380cc alternatives, many simply want to get a little more from what they have at reasonable outlay.

Terminology:
MSC/MM - Mini Spares Centre/Mini Mania
BBU - Big Bore Unit (refers to all 1275cc-based units)
SBU - Small Bore Unit (refers to all sub-1275cc units, here the 998)
BHP - Brake Horse Power
CR - Compression Ratio

Engine - 998 tuning, further options

Following on from the easily bolted on performance enhancing components out-lined in the stage one section, we need to consider where to go to get more power output.

To improve engine out-put, you need to increase the engine's 'breathing' ability. The stage one kit deals with all the easily bolted-on external parts, and represents the best increase for investment. From here on in the power increases will cost commensurately more money. Power production of any engine, once the 'breathing apparatus' (induction/exhaust system) has been dealt with to cause no restriction ...

'The third stroke, that following the compression stroke,of our four-stroke Mini engine’s the only one producing power. The other three consume it. Here we’re looking at with exhaust manifolds, so what we need to consider is how to minimise power consumed on the exhaust stroke as the piston pushes the spent gases out.

Recap

Terminology-
LCB -Long centre Branch

A free-flowing set up’s the name of the game - size playing an important role. It’s always assumed a bigger bore pipe will flow better than a small one, so there’s a tendency to follow the ‘biggest is best’ principle and go for the biggest that can feasibly be fitted. Unfortunately it simply doesn’t work, as this generalised and simple view doesn’t consider the phenomena taking place within an exhaust system.

Injection Cars - Tuning up-date

OK, so what's happened to the Min Tec/Mini Spares development program?

It has been a long time between my first few words on basic injection car tuning and these - for that I apologise, but business has been unbelievably fraught this year.

I did promise regular and frequent up-dates, but the best laid plans, and all that… As I said, business has been more than brisk.

OK, so what's happened to the Min Tec/Mini Spares development program? Apart from a whole lot of investigation and repetitive research into what's available currently - not that much. It is all hinging on this forthcoming ECU from this particular company. Unfortunately the company concerned is not run by businessman or automotive engineers. They are electronics whiz kids who are trying to achieve the Holy Grail.

SU Carbs - Poor idle quality

Something that crops up when any modifications are made to an engine - mainly in the form of improving induction and exhaust capability - is that of idle quality.

After applying aforementioned freer-breathing products to enhance power output, many complain that no matter what - including post rolling-road tuning - they can not get a satisfactory, steady idle setting. And this after checking for manifold/gasket air leaks and spindle to carb body play (usual suspect as the spindle wears quite dramatically over several thousand miles). There is one thing that is often over-looked - the air valve found on many later model cars. This sprung-loaded air valve is built into the butterfly, sometimes called a 'poppet' valve or anti-dive valve. It is primarily there to reduce emissions when the engine is on the over-run - closed throttle at speed, i.e. anything other than at idle and gearbox in neutral.

Since there is already a very good source of starting points/applications for fixed needle carbs, this is for those floundering about in the wilderness that is the biased (swinging) needle example of the breed.

Unfortunately I cannot give an all-encompassing table of what needles are needed for which engine builds. My life's collection of all the automotive-orientated work I'd ever done was stolen out of my car by some low-life scum a few years back. Not for what it was - but for what it might be. All I have is a few scribbled notes, the source of where I start now. Being an oft-voiced question on the message board, I thought I'd share it with you. Since there is already a very good source of starting points/applications for fixed needle carbs, this is for those floundering about in the wilderness that is the biased (swinging) needle example of the breed.

This differential unit incorporates a twin cross-pin assembly and four planet gears. The kit is made to accept standard production crown wheels and standard differential output shafts of your choice

Instruction Sheet (Please read in full before installing anti-roll bar)

The mounting blocks are to be fixed at each end of the bar under the front of the subframe where there is a double thickness of metal close to the forward tie-bar brackets. Loosely assemble the blocks to the bar, one positioned between the locating rings - offer the bar up to the lower front edge of the front subframe.

General fitting instructions

To ensure correct installation of the AP Braking remote vacuum servo unit, thoroughly read and adhere to the fitting instructions prior to carrying out any work on the vehicle. Introduction The vacuum servo unit is incorporated into the hydraulic braking system, remote from the master cylinder, as an intermediate stage operating between the master cylinder and the brake assemblies. The two main parts of the servo unit consist of the vacuum servo mechanism and the hydraulic slave cylinder assembly.

These component parts are bolted together so that the slave cylinder piston is in line with, and is operated by, the servo push rod. A plastic no-return valve is fitted into the vacuum shell and an integral air cleaner is incorporated to prevent foreign matter entering the air control valve chamber. The servo unit is designed to give no assistance with very light brake application. In the absence of servo assistance due to loss of vacuum, an unres...

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